Mario Miranda's Goa

Yes, there is a Museum dedicated to Mario Miranda. But did you know there is a fort, with not only a breath taking view of North Goa but also spacious reading rooms for you to pick up one of his famous works of art and get lost in the awesomeness of his humour.

This was by far my most favourite part of my recent visit to Goa organised by Tourism of Goa. I was given to understand that we were just visiting a fort, playing touristy in Goa. It is a gorgeous fort Reis Magos is. Beautifully restored with a breathtaking view of the sea.  

What really took my breath away was a retrospective - a collection of all Mario Miranda's work, his cartoons, his stories.

I was tempted to sit right there in the spacious gallery created with so much heart. His illustrations and caricatures about travelling across the globe, browsing through the travel stories and with that million dollar view of the sea! Aha!

A first such space I have seen restored, curated and dedicated to an artist of Indian origin in India with so much care, this I am seeing for the first time in my country. I wish this were done more often in more parts of the country, spaces displaying the history and life of artists, noted representatives of the region in the country. And the best part about is was that it was open to the public, not converted into a private product of capitalistic ambitions. Kudos to the people behind the idea and a pat on the back to those who executed the restoration of the fort and incorporating the retrospective without making any seemingly modern changes to the original structure.

In case you cannot make it to the fort but don't want to leave Goa without some of Mario Miranda's souvenirs, head to the recently launched Mario Gallery in Panjim.

Address: Mario Gallery,

Near Hindu Pharmacy,

Below Aroma Hotel,

Duarte Pacheco Road,

Panaji

Ph.No.+91 0832 2421776

(Note: This was a trip organised and sponsored by Tourism of Goa. But it truly was my most favourite part of the trip as shared here. So much so that I spent most of my money on souvenirs for friends and family back home. Quite unique presents from Goa this time around!)  

A Drive Across North Goa

The weather seems just about right for a post on road trips.

And what better than those smooth winding roads of Goa, peppered with coconut groves and rice paddy lush with the freshness of monsoons. Here's a photo essay of one such road trip I did with my besties Reddy and Shankar on one of my many exploratory trips to Goa.

North Goa is not just about Panjim, Baga or Anjuna. While scanning through a map of Goa, my eyes followed the little specs of beaches along its northern border. Cruising beyond the reaches of Calangute across the crowds of Vagator, brushing past the daze that is Morjim, finally slowing down at the quiet expanse of Querim and landing on the northern most tip of Goa at Tiracol.

Tiracol Fort is located at the mouth of the Tiracol river just a short ferry ride away from Querim beach. We drove down from Anjuna, which was approximately an hour's drive away.  

A little cafe and a gorgeous view of the beach from the fort 

Shankar enjoying the view Querim Beach from the fort 

Its beautiful the way they have restored the fort and converted it into a heritage hotel

Maintaining the classic charm of the fort, the rooms are a pleasure to live in

A classic Goan style church sits snug in the centre of the expanse that is Terecol 

It was interesting to see the class with which a fort was converted into a heritage hotel, ideally perfect for such a purpose. The rooms (I was not allowed to take pictures else would have shared them here) were astonishingly gorgeous and perfect for a honeymoon get away.

But having said that it would have been so much nicer had they created a space open for the public, albeit charging a certain sum of money. To know that only a privileged few could access its beautifully resorted spaces is quite a pity.

Also I would have liked to know the story of the fort through its walls, I am sure it witnessed and withstood many a rulers, many a celebrations and probably battles and massacres. What I missed here was hearing about its true story. 

And earlier this year when I visited Reis Magos Fort on a trip organised by Tourism of Goa, I was so happy to see a beautifully restored fort and open spaces for the general public to lounge around. It also has a retrospective about Mario Miranda. More about that in another post.

 (l-r) Shankar, Reddy, DJ 

None the less, I enjoyed a yummy caramel pudding, (not without my two friends here stealing most of it!) and that fab view of Querim beach at the cafe for visiting guests.

Now savouring the taste of the pudding and that oh so potent sea breeze... until the next road trip :)

If you have the moolah, want to go beyond the five star hotels and need a space to stay far far away from all the tourist clutter, I'd suggest you check in to Fort Tiracol Heritage Hotel. I know I would!

Here's a way to reach them:
t: +91(0) 2366227631
w: www.nilaya.com/tiracol  

(Note: This was a self sponsored trip. Shankar and Reddy are my partners in crime for every trip to Goa; a lot because they are my drivers for most of these trips. And now that I drive, they are a little intimidated for the next one :D)  

Druk Path Trek Bhutan

 Beyond its toy-like cities of Thimphu and Paro, beyond the touristy calling of Tiger Nest; I had a yearning to traverse through Bhutan. Through the interiors of the land, through its paths covered with fresh blossoms; this is an account of a trek of my dreams – The Druk Path Trek.

Flashback

A height of 13,000 feet, a 10kg backpack, an up-hill 28 day climb; I trudged along a path as part of a group of amateur mountaineers in the Himalayas. This goes back to 2006 during a course at Nehru Institute of Mountaineering. 

Somewhere along the path we met a lone Rhododendron tree. It was plump with fresh blossoms heavier still with the morning dew. Its flowers a dreamy shade of lilac and with the mist all around us, not to mention our travel weary minds, it seemed more like a vision than reality. 

What transpired beyond that trek is for another story but the vision of that lone tree is what was the inspiration to this trek.  

A calling to Bhutan has been strong for a while and when I heard of forests and gardens ripe with rhododendrons enroute a trek, it triggered memories of that Rhododendron tree. I thought this would be the perfect introduction to the countryside, giving me a window into Bhutan’s untouched locales which not many reach out to beyond the allure of Tiger Nest Monastery and the uber progressive capital Thimphu city. Moreover I was sold with the thought that I would have forests, gardens and pathways full of those blossoms for company on each day of the trek.  

The Route

The Druk Path trek is a 60 kms route winding through mountains between Bhutan’s largest cities Paro and Thimphu.

Just before beginning the trek, my guide Lal points to a tiny black speck in the middle of dense conifers that seem eons away and says, “You see that black spot there, it is a fort 10 kms from where we are now, that is where we will camp this evening.” Even though I have been on a fare share of treks yet anxiety strikes! The thought of the distance, the steep ascent overwhelms me and I try to take my mind off this. 

The mountains have a way of intimidating you in the beginning, making things seem tougher than they actually are and then saying, “Ah I was just kidding.” 

It took us five days to traverse through the trek route that begins from the National Museum in Paro. Beginning with an intense uphill climb we set up camp on day one in an open pasture near an old fort called Jili Dzong, perched on top of the hill and surrounded by tall prayer flags on poles all around us. Thick stone walls white washed with deep red and gold accents and trimmings. With the fragrance of incense thick in the air and monks in deep red robes going about their daily rituals we entered the Dzong to be greeted by statues of Buddha’s past, present and future.

  

Day 2 3770 m to Tsokam the path disappears into a forest. Here is where the Rhododendron trail truly begins. Pleasure red mud like a Persian rug, dominated by rhododendrons of deep red to pure while. Mostly thick forest, was wearing tinted glasses made the colours seem richer like walking through a HD/ 3D movie; only this was for real. Leisure walk, trek through forests, meadows and open pastures

Day 3 4235 m pass called Lavana Day 4 Change in landscape yet again. Trees changed to shrubs as we climbed higher and reached a height of 4000 meters.

The gorgeous scenery, clean air egged me on and after a while my mind calmed down and we set a rhythm in my stride. After trekking for 5 hours and traversing across a couple of mountains we reached the fort Jili Dzong perched on top of the hill and surrounded by tall prayer flags on poles all around the we saw monks. The smell of incense reaches you even before you enter the tall white washed stone structure with trimmings of deep red and gold. We payed our respect to the trinity of towering Buddha’s stationed in the temple inside the fort - representing the past, present and future. 

We moved on from here to Tsokam at which point the open meadows disappear into dense forests heavy with the fragrance of moisture and fresh flowers. From this moment on I was lucky to witness Rhododendrons in every hue and colour beginning from a bright pink, turning deep red, shades of vermilion, yellow onward to my favourite misty lilac and pure white, in all I was told there were at least 54 varieties of Rhododendrons. Landscapes changed from dense forests to open meadows but the trail of Rhododendrons, even at the highest point on the trek at 4235 meters at  the Lavana pass followed us until the last day of the trek. 

Highlights

Being the only trekkers on the route it felt like we were the sole being on the planet for those 5 days, it was calming in a way, away from all the clutter. It was the ideal time to visit as day time temperatures were calm and nights were just a little chilly as opposed to doing the trek in later months of September, October when temperatures can dip below -10 degrees. But the highlights of the trek were the trail of Rhododendrons, I was lucky to visit in the right months (April-May) and setting up camp and enjoy a fresh cup of coffee by a lake. 

Hits and misses

None really. Only they have a lot of chilly and cheese in their food, so if you cant take the heat or are lactose intolerant then mention the same before the trek. With clear views of the snow capped eastern Himalayas, a trail of Rhododendrons, a leisurely pace and amazing food (fresh fern, asparagus, krowbik sabzi) and great stories by our guide Lal for company; I was in heaven.

Tips

- A cushion helps. 

- Carry long socks, don't make the mistake of taking ankle length ones. 

- Head lamp/ torch Good day pack – for water, snacks, specks, cap, windcheater/ light weight wind breaker, windproof, quick dry pants 

- Carrying slippers or light weight sandals are a good idea to slip into after each day's trek

- garbage bags as backpack liners, zip lock bags 

- White tape and cloth bandages to wrap toes in to avoid blisters 

- Carry fruits on trek,instead of chips and biscuits (no garbage) good idea. 

Would I do it again?

Yes maybe in Winter, but then I am tempted to ditch it for other winter treks in Bhutan – to Jhomulhari’s base camp or better yet the Snowman’s trek – the toughest trek in the world. When ever Bhutan calls me back next, I will be only too willing.

Notes: 

My guide told me that I was the first Indian on a trek with him in Bhutan and on finding out further I was told that Indian travellers don't opt for trekking here. During the R&D phase for this trip I spoke with 13 people ( 3 agents in India and 10 people who have visited Bhutan over the years) the agents went on their first trip this year to test the turf for treks for next year. Ten tourists did not know about trekking options available in Bhutan. So I am guessing most Indians will opt for treks in Bhutan next year.

Random Musings During the Trek:

A good way to gauge distance: When you can see forests of conifers in front of you you clearly have a lot to cover. When trunks of the same conifers star you in the face, you know you are nearer now.

(This was an independent trip. Bhutan tourism was kind enough to connect me with a few travel agents who helped in booking the appropriate flight connections and other logistics. I have shared coordinates for the same below)

1) Bhutan Yarden Tours & Treks

Mr. Karma Wangdi

Managing Director

Tel: 00975 (0) 2 334818

Mob: 00975 17604549

Email: yardentours@gmail.com / karma@bhutanyarden.com

2) Bhutan Dhenzang Travel

Mr. Karma Letho

Managing Director

Tel: 00975 2 340100

Mob: 00975 17118668

Email: dhenzangtravel@hotmail.com / dhenzang@trekbhutantour.com

3) Excursion To Himalayas - Bhutan Travel

Mr. Mindu Dorji

CEO/Founder

Tel: 00975 2 331423

Mob: 00975 17140505

Email: excursiontohimalayas@gmail.com

Website: www.traveltobhutan.com.bt 

The Perfect Blend - Us Two

The sight of that carbon black surface, smooth and solid to the touch, the weight of its shaft firmly caressing my palm; its body the perfect fit for my hand. Holding it close to my face, as if the perfect bend us two – it’s cool persona and my warm skin. 

My left hand reaches out to its base like as if caressing its neck just before a strong kiss. The right reaching out to the lens adjusting the view of the scene ahead. Then a pause to relish what we see – it was never just a click. Photography, my first love, this is an ode to thee.  

But that there is where I need to rewind. Lost? Why so? No. Lost no more. Adjust the frame and look, closely. At every undulating shadow, that dew drop just about to roll off that fresh vivid leaf. Look closely.

There was a point I remember all those years ago when I thought I faced a block. A photographers block if you will. Why? That urge to lift the camera to my eye, frame and shoot not an urge anymore. A transition of sorts.

I wondered was I leaving the art or was the art leaving me? Then I reasoned with myself – do I have to capture moments with a lens and a camera each time, isn't it enough to record it in my mind’s eye and save it there for eternity? Many agreed with me, the profound need of the statement leaving an incomplete silence in its wake. But I knew that was not all, I was missing something, a reason for this transition.

That’s when writing happened to me. And Photography stepped back, for a while. Through cliche phrases, through oft repeated lines, I pursued; each time expressing more of what I feel. 

Me: Clear that clutter (to that special someone, recently)

Him: Yes there are a couple of photographs I can discard. 

Me: Why would you do that? I ask.

Him: Keep only memories, memories in the mind.

Me: Oh but its the photographs that come in handy when the mind does not.

Those worlds...a bell rings... in the mindless recesses, when he reiterated the same words I convinced myself and the world into believing. A memory tells us only the things we want to remember, see. A photograph tells us things the way they truly were and that in itself is their purpose.

A writing community gave me feedback – there is so much adventure in your travels they said, tell us all about it, tell us what you see, paint that picture. We’ll know how you feel. 

That process of photography – to set your eyes on a single frame, touch every tone of its entity with your vision. Create, compose, may be even construct a scene the way you want it and then record it until eternity – that is what I was always meant to do. 

What is Canada's New Glacier Skywalk All About

High up in the Canadian Rockies an uber cool sight awaits, a curved stretch of glass suspended from the glacial facade; almost like a stage set up for a cosmic show. That is the Glacier Skywalk about to open tomorrow - May 1st, 2014.

Canada's Glacier Skywalk in Jasper National Park (Image: Brewster Travel Canada)

Standing, no no - floating at the edge of that Skywalk with a sheer glass facade separating you from the Athabasca glacier around enveloped in the gorgeous Sunwapta Valley below; for thrill seekers it qualifies for a must do on your next visit to Canada.  
Fact File: 

- It is a fully-accessible, cliff-edge walkway that leads to a glass-floored observation platform 280 metres (918 feet) above the Sunwapta Valley.
- The walk is accessed via Brewster’s nearby icefield centre. Public parking at the Skywalk is closed, but the company will provide no-charge return-trip shuttles every 15 minutes from the centre to a free viewpoint or an interpretive walk and Skywalk platform which costs $24.95 for an adult $12.50 for a child. Children five and under are free.

- Open from: 1st May - 19th October, 2014.
- From ice-capped mountain peaks to vast glacier-formed valleys, the Glacier Skywalk is your front row seat to nature’s most grand performance.” Now that’s something!

Not Just a Skywalk
Years ago a drive around the road side pullout at Jasper National Park on the highway at Tangle Ridge would pretty much give you a view of the valley. But the construction of this Glacier Skywalk promises to enhance that experience by giving you the impression of being suspended right in the middle of the valley and glaciers via walking across that sheer glass surface.

If that was not enough, there are facilities for visitors to enhance their knowledge about the regions history, ecological culture and locals; making it a wholesome day trip for the independent traveller and families alike.

Of course there is the intrepid traveller adventurous enough in search of that fleeting moment of magic and would rather head out for a one to one with the valley. But there are others who come too; students, environmentalists, fresh minds both young and old to whom it is importance to convey the message of ecological travel. For example - there is a specific species of mountain goat that live high up in those glaciers; the only few species that can access that fragile landscape without negative impact. Humans can spot them and study them from a distance at this glacier skywalk, without endangering their environment.

There are concerns that question a privately owned tourist attraction in a national park and its existence itself having an impact of the sensitive ecology of the glacial landscape. It will attract more visitors who limit their visits to the Banff Lake. Yet it is difficult to deny its architectural and design genius.

I sure am intrigued.

Reference Links:
www.explorerockies.com
glacierskywalk.ca/

Tripping Around Munich: Music, Trinkets and Beer

No no, not the hot Texans to the left, look here at Tom, our guide at
Sandemans Walking tour, a dose of British humour in Germany!

This was a quick two touristy days around Munich, Germany before a work assignment. A few hours of research and help from our host Stephie and the locals led me to explore the known and not so known parts of the city. Read on for my takeaways for a short but fun trip around the city.

First off get an uber cool map of the well connected underground train routes. With Hauptbahnhof - the central station you can begin by heading to Marienplatz for a free walking tour by Sandemans for an orientation about the city and its history. The guides are young, fun and witty and add a quirky perspective to the history of Bavarian culture and the region.

You are in the mecca of music, with operas and musical performances every day of the calendar so try to get yourself a ticket to one, you might not understand a word (I din’t)  but it is an amazing experience none the less. I was lucky to get tickets for a Mozart musical, right on his birthday - 27th January at Kulturzentrum Gasteig, one of the greatest performance halls in Germany. 

All set to explore the city in my new set of boots

The Marienplatz streets are lined with high fashion stores and if you have shopping on your mind, this is Disney land. I for one had a single point focus – a good pair of walking boots! So I trudged around from one store to the other in search of the perfect pair that would complete my winter look but not leave me penniless on my first day in Munich. Not wedges, not high heels just a pair of simple comfortable, no heel boots that I could explore the city in. I finally found the perfect pair on sale at Diechmann for a cool 29 euros, a steal it was! 

Travel Tips:

- Carry half the clothes and double the money, when you leave from home your bag should be half empty so that you have all that space for souvenirs and gifts. What is travel without heading home with a bag full of gifts for friends and family when you get back? 

- Don't wait till the last day of your trip to buy all those things you wanted to, of course exercise restrain, but you don't want to come back with all that cash and no gifts for all your loved ones, not to mention - yourself.

- You are in Bavaria, make sure you carry back a loot of chocolates and small chocolate liquor bottles, trust me I tried all of them and the chocolate liquor ones are the best. 

- Shnapps are stronger than liquor, exercise caution!

- Around the city center among other public spaces you can access free wifi for three days, make sure you remember to check in!   

Viktualienmarkt

Each time I travel, local markets feature on the top of my list, as they give me a whiff of the country side, a special treat on trips that I cannot travel to the countryside myself. So if you’d like to experience a bit of the Bavarian countryside through its local produce head to the Viktualienmarkt for a range of fresh and dry fruits, meats, gorgeous flowers, creative trinkets, and flavoured teas, honey, coffee, cheese... I can go on! Get clicking or shop here for unique souvenirs like bags of dried lavender flowers, roasted apple chips, rose and berry flavoured spices and more.

'You haven't mentioned the beer yet?' Only because that goes without saying, doesn't it! You cannot possibly leave German soil without sampling all the beer you can get your hands on, be it via bar crawls or settling at a local beer hole every evening; tourists head to Haufbrauhaus, one of the famous beer halls in Germany. So even though beer is not my poison, this one I had to try. Amongst all the local pubs and restaurants, I liked Hackersachor, a cute and quaint little pub at Marienplatz. After a pint or two head down the road for hot banana and chocolate pancakes at a little hole-in-the-wall cafe.   

Munich main beer to banta hain!

Talk about all that chocolate and beer overload? Ah, but I managed to balance that with a diet of fresh and juicy fruits, hot candied nuts and freshly roasted chest nuts throughout the trip, ideal energy boosters for all the walking around the city. My special favourite was the spiced chilli variety of nuts; in that chilly winter it made for a perfect snack. 

Day Trips from Munich

Neuschwanstein Castle. Cool Photo credit: Melanie De Andrade

Neuschwanstein Castle: Go for the story, the vision of a tall, fair and handsome King Ludwig fulfilled, well just about. It is a gorgeous castle yes, but the mystery behind his life and death is what this day trip will always remind me of. Oh and while en-route to the castle, if you are travelling via a tour coach, they stop at a little village called Oberammergau, walk around it for gorgeous trinkets to buy, unique stuff rather than the typical travel souvenirs. 

Beyond Munich

The trains are quick and very well connected you don’t need to worry about renting a car unless you want to head for a road trip across Europe. The Db Bhan is a superlative mode when you need to travel to other parts of Germany or nearby countries such as Vienna, like I did. 

But please please try living in a Home Stay, best source to find one is Airbnb; if you research a little, you can get the comfort of a luxury hotel at the cost of a hostel stay and a fab interaction with your hosts - the locals too. 

Things I missed which you could give a try: 

Merc Benz Museum 

http://goo.gl/EUvyN9

Dachau Memorial 

http://www.munichwalktours.de/en/

Garmin Partenkirchen and Romantic Road A gorgeous drive through route.